recommended

BEIRUT DIARIST: The Rioters and Me

The New Republic   February 2006

I’ve had close calls working in the Middle East (rocket attacks, roadside bombs, food poisoning), but nothing beyond the usual occupational hazards of an American journalist–until Sunday, when I was mistaken for a Dane.
I had recently returned to Beirut from an assignment in northern Iraq and was thinking of spending the morning in my pajamas, […]

Babes in Kurdland

Plenty Magazine   March 2005

There were moments during my trip into the Qandil mountains of northeastern Iraq when it felt as if all the other passengers stuffed into the Land Cruiser with me—some dozen Kurdish guerillas and activists—were sitting in my lap. Not that I was complaining. This was the summer of 2004, and I figured it was cooler […]

Losing Mosul?

Time.com   October 2004

Khalid Moustafa’s family has no idea who killed him, or why. Moustafa, a Kurd, was a yogurt seller and taxi driver, the husband of an Arab woman and the father of five children, with a sixth on the way. He was found in pieces, his head near his home, his body left by a highway.
Moustafa’s […]

The Times’ Man in Baghdad: John Burns Swears Off Tea

The New York Observer   June 2004

BAGHDAD — When New York Times foreign correspondent John F. Burns returned home to England after the fall of Baghdad last year, he nearly collapsed of exhaustion. Diagnosed with an electrical flutter of the heart, he was certain of the cause: the stress of those many months in Iraq, the hounding by the secret police, […]

‘If you don’t get any birds, come and kill a cow’

The Sunday Telegraph (U.K.)   April 2004

There are no beaters and most of the shooting is done from car windows. Andrew Lee Butters joined two Iraqis and another American on a grouse shoot in the wetlands south of Basra
There was something comforting about the sight of sporting shotguns and rifles in pink racks lining the walls of the hunt shop […]