Where Iraq Works

A Kurdish family celebrates Nowruz, a holiday marking the Kurdish New Year and the start of spring. Since 2003, no U.S troops have been killed in Kurdish Iraq. Kate Brooks/Polaris for TIME LIKE RESIDENTS OF BERLIN DURING THE AIRLIFT, inhabitants of Arbil–capital of the Kurdish enclave in northern Iraq–get a little flutter in their hearts […]

Postcard from Erbil: A Very Kurdish New Year

Noruz, the Zoroastrian New Year and the first day of spring, is celebrated by Iraq’s Kurds every year on March 21. The holiday is a much bigger deal next door in Iran — ancient Persia is the birthplace of the Zoroastrian religion, and the government practically shuts down for weeks. The Kurds are given fewer […]

Is Trouble Brewing for the Kurds?

To many Western minds, the Kurdish-dominated, mountainous northern part of Iraq is an island of relative stability amidst the chaos and bloodshed that wreak havoc in the rest of the country. In fact, with the Kurds boxed in on all sides by jealous and often unfriendly neighbors, that image has always been a bit misguided. […]

Trouble in Kurdistan

Erbil, the capital of Kurdish northern Iraq, is less than an hour’s flight from Baghdad but almost a world away. While the insurgent-plagued airport road in Baghdad is known as the “Highway of Death,” the road from the newly opened Erbil International Airport, plagued by nothing more dangerous than cyclists in spandex, wends through construction […]

Babes in Kurdland

There were moments during my trip into the Qandil mountains of northeastern Iraq when it felt as if all the other passengers stuffed into the Land Cruiser with me—some dozen Kurdish guerillas and activists—were sitting in my lap. Not that I was complaining. This was the summer of 2004, and I figured it was cooler […]